Some homeowners look out their windows and see lush and beautiful gardens. Others would like to see lush and beautiful gardens, but are instead greeted with overgrown, dead or otherwise dirty landscapes. Whether you’ve inherited a neglected garden from a previous homeowner or you’re just too busy to keep up with the maintenance, don’t despair: Creating a game plan now can help you have a better view by next winter.
Like most frustrating tasks, breaking the process into smaller steps taken over time will help make the project manageable.
decide what to clean
First, take a notepad and walk around the garden. Evaluate each section, determining which plants can be saved, which need to go and which need attention. Make a list now. Dead and invasive plants, as well as weeds, should be the first on the chopping block. If weather permits, dig them up, removing as much of their root system as possible. Otherwise, deal with it first thing in the spring.
Next, remove otherwise healthy plants and give away the ones you don’t want. Online shopping-for-nothing groups and neighborhood pages are great places to find buyers. Many people will even be willing to do the digging if it means getting a free plant. If the property has a mass of plants, bushes, trees and vines that have grown wild, a chainsaw, brush mower or brush grubber may be appropriate.
Define any new bed
If you’re struggling with a lot of weeds or want to create new garden beds in the lawn, you can bury the existing vegetation instead of digging it up. Determine the shape and size of the bed or border and cover the area with thick layers of cardboard or newspaper. This can be done now, add 3 inches of compost and 2 inches of mulch on top and leave for the winter. It can also wait until planting time.
When you’re ready to plant, you’ll cut root-sized holes in the cardboard for your plants. Most weeds will be suppressed, but some weeds may penetrate and require pulling or more cardboard.
How and when to prune
Healthy but overgrown or unproductive deciduous shrubs (the types that lose their leaves) can be revived by pruning. Do this when the branches are bare in late winter. Choosing a method will require weighing the aesthetics against the rebound time and deciding which one is right for you. The quickest (but most severe) method would be to cut the entire plant back to just above ground level. It’s scary, but most shrubs can handle it and will bounce back strongly.
If maintaining height in the garden is important, you may choose to cut each branch or stem individually at uneven heights. Or cut off one-third of the plant’s branches each year for three years. The latter will have the least impact but require the most patience.
Evergreen trees and shrubs should only undergo selective pruning (shortening of individual branches). Take care to avoid over-cutting or cutting holes in evergreen plants and trees; Except yes, they won’t refill.
looking at the dirt
Now that you have a clean canvas, turn your attention to the clay. Test the pH of the soil to make sure it is within range for the plants you plan to add. Test kits are available at local and online garden retailers. Your local Cooperative Extension service can provide testing and soil amendment advice for a nominal fee.
If indicated, add lime or elemental sulfur to the soil to raise or lower the pH, following package directions. If the soil is hard and compacted, use a core aerator or long-handled garden fork to make 2-3 inch holes through which air and water can enter. Finally, spread a 2 to 3-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure over the area. As it decomposes, nutrients will make their way into the soil.
Planting Ideas
After completing the above steps, it will be time to plant your new garden. If by summer you’re not ready to plant yet, add mulch or use annual plants to protect the bare soil. When you’re ready to plant new trees, shrubs and/or perennials, carefully select varieties that won’t outgrow.
Dig holes as deep as their roots but twice as wide and space them appropriately, keeping in mind their mature size. For the lowest maintenance in the future, consider hardy, pollinator-friendly, drought-tolerant native plants.
Incorporate non-aggressive groundcovers into the beds to serve as natural mulch and discourage weeds – remember, if you don’t plant anything on bare spots, God will. While you wait for the groundcover to fill in, apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch between and around the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, keep soil temperatures even and protect tender roots.
This may take a year or two or more, depending on your schedule and ability, but the step-by-step approach will keep you from becoming overwhelmed and provide a steady stream of small wins as you reach your goal. .
