AP | , Posted by Krishna Priya PallaviParis
January 26, 2025 01:16 PM
The collection exuded warmth, both in spirit and texture. Fuzzy mohair coats, velvet varsity jackets wrapped the models in a hug to combat the winter chill.
Hermès brightened a gloomy Paris afternoon with its fall men’s collection on Saturday, as Véronique Nikanian turned to the racetrack for inspiration. Jockey’s vibrant racing silks became his muse, a dynamic counterpoint to the French maison’s storied equestrian roots. “I wanted this collection to be strong and energetic,” Nikanian explained, her palette pivoting from deep browns and dark teals to flashes of tomato red and lemon yellow.
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A sharp, architectural vision
The collection exuded warmth, both in spirit and texture. Fuzzy mohair coats, velvet varietal jackets and plush sheepskin outerwear wrapped models in an embrace that was designed to combat the winter chill. Layering was less pronounced this season, a deliberate move to maintain the sleek, streamlined silhouette. Even the gray pinstripe suit – essentially repurposed – escaped wholesale, echoing the Nicanian vision of disaffected men as they race through life.
Sweaters emerged as the unsung heroes of the collection. Their bold chevrons and geometric patterns were lifted directly from the vibrant stripes of racing silks, a playful nod to the soaring, angular architecture of the Palais d’Arena.
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A standout turtleneck in canary yellow, with its patchwork of triangles, rectangles and squares, seemed to channel a nostalgic love for trigonometry. Elsewhere, a jacket with a shawl collar reflected the same graphical bravado, rendered in cool tones of blue, black and white.
Although grounded in classic tailoring, the collection celebrated irreverence. The Nicanian juxtaposition of tradition and innovation captured the Hermès ethos with a cool confidence. Here, functionality was imbued with a touch of flair, proving once again that the maison’s refinement can still surprise and delight. In a season steeped in nostalgia and geometry, Hermès delivered a collection that was, quite literally, off to the races.
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