In a cinematic homage blurring the lines of fashion and film, Chanel transported its viewers to a fictional Deauville for its latest showcase at Paris Fashion Week. A black-and-white short film set in the Normandy seaside town starring Brad Pitt and Penélope Cruz highlighted Chanel’s roots. Combining the 1920s heyday of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel with the drama of the ’70s, designer Virginie Viard recreated the founder’s gender-fluid wardrobe from a “winter sojourn by the sea.” Deauville changed the direction of Chanel and possibly the Paris fashion industry. (Also read | Isha Ambani’s mega-watt white lehenga for Anant Ambani-Radhika Merchant’s pre-wedding is embellished with diamonds, pearls,
Here are some highlights from the Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024 ready-to-wear shows, including the latest spectacle from Louis Vuitton designer Nicolas Ghesquière, who celebrated 10 years of his debut collection on Tuesday:
Deauville, film
Pitt and Cruise, depicted as lovers in the idyllic town, charmed guests who watched the romance unfold on giant plasma screens interspersed with scenes of beachside glee and bonding over orders of medium-rare Chateaubriand steak.
Deauville, who influenced Viard’s fall aesthetic with her floppy beach hat, played a key role in Chanel’s journey from licensed milliner to revolutionary designer.
“Deauville is where everything for the house began,” Viard said. It was here that Chanel took inspiration from the world around her: the salty and striped uniforms of fishermen, the speed of horses on the racetrack, attractive madams sunbathing on the sand.
“For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk,” said Viard, with chunky sailor sweaters, dressing gown-style belted coats and strong-shouldered peacoats. The colors evoked the city’s romantic sky with shades of pink, light blue and orange.
Despite the poetic musings and finely proportioned coats, the penchant for accessories sometimes distracted from the costumes and, at times, spoiled Viard’s clarity of vision.
The setting evoked memories of the pageantry past of his flamboyant predecessor Karl Lagerfeld, who was known for transforming the Grand Palace into a real beach with real water. Some attendees felt that the decorations and clothing were comparatively lackluster this time.
The Decade of Ghesquière at Vuitton
Ghesquière spoke about the collection in emotional terms. “This is a special evening, a meaningful evening. Ten years ago… I remember the feeling of ‘the beginning,’ the immense joy I felt to be among you,” Ghesquière said.
It marked the anniversary of his tenure at Louis Vuitton, arguably the richest luxury house in the world.
Amid a giant futuristic rainbow spiked ball and inside the oldest courtyard of the Louvre, Ghesquière unveiled an ambitious collection mixing seasonal trends that also “witnesses a decade of fashion”.
The theme of the collection appears to be collapsed time. The result was a performance with some eccentric moments, which sometimes seemed to lack clear thematic direction. The fusion of ideas sometimes seems to weaken the overall narrative.
In his signature time-travel style – Ghesquière is famous for his ability to blend historical references with futuristic visions – silver space-age eye banding with a sporty look at Elizabethan ruffles, while garb of gorgeous furs resembled real, hairy Came in glove form.
As the collection progressed, confidence and focus increased. The structured embellished jackets were excellent reflecting the Asian attire with their glittering colours. Some were worn with hipster brogues, showcasing Ghesquière’s talent for mixing couture with a street sensibility.
There were moments of pure entertainment, like a structured “pasty” minidress with a Louis Vuitton monogram bag design that had fashion insiders pulling out their cameras. Some omissions, such as the light blue series, could have benefited from color contrast to keep them from looking dull.
The look had the 80s punk dynamic at its best. As models walked in men’s shoes, they were captivated by the ballooning hems of voluminous skirts, in a trademark Ghesquière feat of subverting femininity.
PETA: Activist arrested outside Vuitton
Actress and activist Celine Durand was arrested by police in Paris after animal rights group PETA called LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault “a half-blooded snake” outside the Louis Vuitton show at the Louvre to protest the use of exotic skins in luxury. Tried to present “Cake”. Said.
Arnault, whose company owns Louis Vuitton, celebrated his 75th birthday on Tuesday.
The “cake” – which was half vanilla, half blood red – reportedly bore the words “75 years for Arnault, death for animals”.
Miu Miu is growing up
Miu Miu’s fall collection took a playful jab at the transition from childhood to adulthood. Miuccia Prada’s outspoken little sister brand once again addressed deep topics through the lens of frivolity.
Pajamas with cut sleeves, round-toe shoes, and outerwear amid extremely shrunken proportions gave rise to the Tom Hanks film “Big”. Adulthood was seen in the form of gloves and handbags, brooches and tailoring.
The pioneering designer said the human condition is sometimes a mixture of the two. Sometimes, the collections included designs, such as sweaters, cardigans in silk and cashmere, and poplin skirts with weaves, while shearling was treated to imitate the precious fur.
Miu Miu’s creations consistently symbolize a youthful spirit, merging elegance with playful defiance. This is evident in unexpected styling choices, such as pairing classic pieces with undergarments or athletic apparel, sometimes challenging traditional fashion norms.
