By Marie-Louise Gumuchian
LONDON (AP) — Gucci transformed London’s Tate Modern art gallery into a catwalk on Monday as the Italian luxury label presented its Cruise 2025 line in the British city that once inspired its founder.
Creative director Sabato de Sarno opened the show with brown suede jackets and ensembles, often bearing the Gucci horsebit symbol, paired with chiffon blouses.
Strolling around the gallery’s basement blooming with lush greenery and in front of an audience including model Kate Moss, actor Paul Mescal and singer Debbie Harry, the models wore coats and dresses in chamomile flower prints, loose denim shirts and trousers.
De Sarno nodded to British tailoring, introducing short coats or boxy jackets.
“I’m very grateful to this city that has welcomed me and listened to me. The same is true for Gucci, whose founder was inspired by his experience there,” he said in the shownotes.
Before opening his famous leather goods shop in Florence, Guccio worked as a porter at the Savoy Hotel in London.
De Sarno also introduced pleated gowns in pastel colors and several designs, including a coat and dress, featured dazzling beaded fringes.
Models in the cruise line primarily wore flat shoes, which referred to designs created by stylists in addition to the twice-yearly seasonal collections.
DeSarno said, “It’s another part of me, more romantic, more contradictory.”
“I like taking something we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as possible without distorting it. Bringing it to its opposite and creating harmony.”
De Sarno made her catwalk debut for French luxury group Kering’s star label Gucci last September, with her first designs hitting stores in mid-February.
His loose-fitting styles differ from the more flamboyant designs of his predecessor Alessandro Michele.
Last month, Kering said it expected a 40% to 45% drop in first-half operating profit after first-quarter sales declined as wealthier shoppers curbed spending on Gucci products.
The warning has raised concerns in the luxury sector about the prospects for a comeback in the all-important Chinese market, where a property crisis and high youth unemployment have hit buyers’ appetite for high-end fashion.
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