Located in Rajasthan, Ramgarh Shekhawati is more than just a city. It is a tale of history, a testament to traditions and an open art gallery that mesmerizes the travelers. Recently, various artists and practitioners came together to participate in the Vedaranya Heritage and Healing (VHAH) Festival organized by the non-profit Shruti Foundation in collaboration with the Department of Tourism, Government of Rajasthan and the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage. (INTACH) Shekhawati Chapter. Here, we uncover this hidden Rajasthani gem and take a look at some interesting destinations to explore.
History
Also known as Ramgarh Sethan, the city was identified by its ‘Seths’ and emerged as one of the wealthiest cities of 19th century India. According to Rajasthan Tourism, it was founded in 1791, when merchant families like the Poddars from neighboring areas like Sikar moved to the city on the orders of their rulers. Located 50 km from Jhunjhunu city, Ramgarh Shekhawati was declared a heritage city by the Government of Rajasthan in 2017 for its historical architecture.
complex umbrellas
These tomb-like structures built to commemorate ancestors reflect Vedic art, philosophy, mythology and more. One of the first chhatris in Ramgarh Shekhawati was constructed in the 1830s. The beautifully crafted chhatris include frescoes depicting stories of cosmic creation, destruction, love and war. “During that period, natural colors like henna, saffron, turmeric and kajal were used to paint these frescoes and walls. In later years, indigo (blue color) from Europe was added to the color palette. The technique used for painting was known as ‘ala gila’, which involved first applying a layer of lime and then painting the walls while they were still wet. This allows the colors to soak deeper. Because of the technology, the colors remain intact even after centuries,” says Poddar.
temples galore
The city has beautiful temples which no one can easily forget. The Shani Temple, in particular, has frescoes made of imported Belgian glass from the early 1900s. Created by the Khemka Seths, the frescoes were created using a four-layer technique. “First a layer of lime is applied, then a layer of cloth, then a layer of paper, on top of which the mirror is pasted with the help of glue,” explains Poddar. The temple also has an eternal flame which is said to be burning since its inception.
Another temple in the area is a Vedic temple called Shikhara Bandha. With no idol of any deity visible, this temple is dedicated to the Samaveda, the Veda of tunes and mantras. “The external carvings of the temple depict centuries-old classic musical instruments,” says Poddar. The restoration of the temple was done by INTACH along with the Shruti Foundation.
land of mansions
There are around 100 havelis in Ramgarh Shekhawati, each of which presents unique artwork and style. Situated amidst a cluster of mansions, Jai Narayan Poddar Haveli is the mansion of one of the richest families in the region. Its premises contain frescoes made of wood, gold frames and precious stones.
On the other hand, the paintings depicting sensuality on the exterior of Deep Chand Kishan Lal Poddar Haveli attract people’s attention. However, there are pictures of gods and goddesses inside the mansion. “The outdoor paintings were for men and it was ensured that women living indoors were not affected,” says Shruti Nada Poddar, founder of the Shruti Foundation, which has restored the Mohar and Vedaranya mansions in the area. People can book their stay in both these mansions.
Ramgarh Fort
One of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, Ramgarh Fort serves as an ideal venue for many cultural events. Recently, it was the venue of the VHAH Festival, co-directed by Mira Mishra Kaushik, where renowned Indian artists performed. These included Bharatanatyam exponent Padmashree Geeta Chandran, folk singer Mir Basu Khan, sitarist Shubhendra Rao, cellist Saskia Rao-de Haas, artist Satish Gupta and classical dancer Padma Vibhushan Sonal Mansingh. The fort also organizes Ramlila every year during Dussehra.
