London-based model Alexandra has a twin, but not in the way you’d expect: her counterpart is made of pixels rather than flesh and blood. The virtual twin was generated by artificial intelligence and has already appeared in a photo shoot as a stand-in for the real-life Alexandra. Alexandra, who goes by her first name professionally, receives credit and compensation whenever an AI version of herself is used – just like a human model.
Alexandra says that she and her alter-ego mirror each other “even down to the baby’s hair”. And it’s another example of how AI is changing the creative industries – and how humans may or may not be compensated.
Proponents say the increased use of AI in fashion modeling showcases diversity in all shapes and sizes, allowing consumers to make more tailored purchasing decisions, thereby reducing fashion waste from product returns. And digital modeling saves money for companies and creates opportunities for people who want to work with technology.
But critics have raised concerns that digital models could put human models — and other professionals like makeup artists and photographers — out of jobs. Unsuspecting consumers can be fooled into thinking that AI models are real, and companies can take credit for meeting diversity commitments without employing actual humans.
“Fashion is niche, with limited opportunities for entry for people of color,” said Sarah Ziff, a former fashion model and founder of Model Alliance, a nonprofit that aims to advance workers’ rights in the fashion industry. “I think the use of AI to distort racial representation and marginalize real models of color reveals this troubling gap between the industry’s stated intentions and their actual actions.”
Women of color in particular have long faced high barriers to entry into modeling and AI could reverse some of the gains they have made. Data show that women are more likely to work in occupations in which technology can be applied, and they are more at risk of displacement than men.
In March 2023, iconic denim brand Levi Strauss & Co. announced that it would be testing an AI-generated model created by Amsterdam-based company Lalaland.ai to add a wider range of body types and underrepresented demographics to its website. But after receiving widespread backlash, Levy clarified that she is not backing down on her commitment to live photo shoots, the use of live models, or working with diverse models.
Levy said, “We do not view this (AI) pilot as a means to advance diversity or as a substitute for real action that needs to be taken to meet our diversity, equity and inclusion goals and It shouldn’t be portrayed that way.” Said in his statement at that time.
The company said last month that it had no plans to expand its AI program.
The Associated Press contacted several other retailers to ask whether they use AI fashion models. Target, Kohl’s and fast-fashion giant Shein declined to comment; Teemu did not respond to a request for comment.
Meanwhile, spokespeople for Neiman Marcus, H&M, Walmart and Macy’s said their respective companies do not use AI models, though Walmart clarified that “suppliers may have a different approach to the photography they use for their products.” “But we don’t have that information.”
Nonetheless, companies creating AI models are finding demand for the technology, including Lalaland.AI, which was co-founded by Michael Musandu after he felt frustrated by the absence of clothing models that looked like him .
“One model does not represent everyone who is actually shopping and purchasing the product,” he said. “As a person of color, I felt this painfully myself.”
Musandu says his product is meant to complement traditional photo shoots, not replace them. Instead of viewing one model, shoppers can view nine to 12 models using different sized filters, which will enrich their shopping experience and help reduce product returns and fashion waste.
The technology is actually creating new jobs, Musandu said, because lalaland.ai pays humans to train its algorithms.
And if brands “are serious about inclusion efforts, they will continue to hire these models of color,” he said.
London-based model Alexandra, who is black, says her digital counterpart has helped her differentiate herself in the fashion industry. In fact, the real-life Alexandra has even stood by a black computer-generated model named Shudu, who was created by Cameron Wilson, a former fashion photographer turned CEO of UK-based digital modeling agency The Digitals.
Wilson, who is white and uses they/they pronouns, designed Shudu in 2017, described on Instagram as “the world’s first digital supermodel.” But critics at the time accused Wilson of cultural appropriation and digital blackface.
Wilson took the experience as a lesson and turned to The Digitals to ensure that Shudu – which has been booked by Louis Vuitton and BMW – did not take away opportunities, but instead opened up possibilities for women of color. For example, Alexandra has personally modeled as Shudu for Vogue Australia, and writer Ama Badu came in with Shudu’s background and portrayed her voice for interviews.
Alexandra said she is “extremely proud” of her work with The Digitals, which created their own AI twin: “It’s something that even when we’re no longer here, future generations can look back and Can say, ‘They are pioneers.’
But for New York City model Yve Edmond, who works with major retailers to test the fit of clothes before they are sold to consumers, the rise of AI in fashion modeling feels more insidious.
Edmunds is concerned that modeling agencies and companies are taking advantage of models, who are typically independent contractors who get few labor protections in the US, to train AI systems without their consent or compensation. His photographs are used.
He described an incident in which a client asked Edmund to photograph him moving his arms, sitting and walking for “research” purposes. Edmund refused and later felt betrayed – her modeling agency had told her she was being booked for a fitting, not a build for Avatar.
“This is a complete violation,” he said. “It was really disappointing for me.”
But in the absence of AI regulations, it is up to companies to be transparent and ethical about deploying AI technology. And Ziff, founder of Model Alliance, compares the current lack of legal protections for fashion workers to the “Wild West.”
That’s why the Model Alliance is pushing for legislation like the one being considered in New York State, which would require a provision of the Fashion Workers Act to require management companies and brands to provide a model’s explicit written permission to create or use a digital replica of a model. Consent will need to be obtained; Specify the amount and period of compensation, and prohibit altering or manipulating the digital replica of the model without consent.
Alexandra says that with ethical use and the right legal regulations, AI could open doors for more models of color like her. She has told her clients that she has an AI replicant, and she routes any inquiries for its use through Wilson, whom she describes as “someone I know, Love, trust and my friend.” Wilson says they ensure that any compensation for Alexandra’s AI is equal to the compensation she would make personally.
However, Edmund is more of a purist: “We have this wonderful Earth that we live on. And you have people of every color, every height, every size. Why is that person not found and compensated?”
